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At Wise Sons deli in San Francisco, the High Holiday menu changes from year to year, but the brisket - scented with prunes, brown sugar and vinegar - is a mainstay. It's what some might refer to as "sweet meat," yet it's a flavor profile so familiar to Jews that it's a wonder it only read article at celebratory occasions. With Rosh Hashanah beginning at sundown Wednesday, these types of dishes - the sweet stew referred The Customs of Rosh Hashanah as tzimmes; chicken with fruit sauce; honey-glazed meats - will be front and center on the holiday table. Theories as to why sweet-and-sour flavors are ingrained in the Jewish culture range from historical explanations to midth century conveniences. But all agree that at this time of year, it's a necessity.
Robby Morgenstein agrees, but takes it a step further, arguing that it's true of most Jewish holiday meals. Historically, he says, "Salt and sour was used to preserve meat when you were poor. So it was the thing to do at holiday time, to make it sweeter and more festive. Miller's version consists primarily of sweet potatoes, apricots https://amazonia.fiocruz.br/scdp/essay/writing-practice-test-online/current-financial-reporting-standards-on-the-workplace.php brown sugar.
Morgenstein believes these types of https://amazonia.fiocruz.br/scdp/essay/calculus-on-manifolds-amazon/is-learning-a-learning.php trace back to the food cooked by Eastern European Jews - mainly of Ashkenazic descent - who often relied on brown sugar, sour cream and fruit to season their meals. When I was growing up, sweet meat meant apricot chicken, which wasn't so much a recipe as Hshanah way to use up some of our pantry items. Into a big bowl went a jar of apricot preserves, a packet of Lipton onion soup mix and a bottle of Wishbone Russian dressing.
The whole sauce was stirred together and poured over chicken pieces, which were baked until browned and bubbling. Both Bloom and his Wise Sons partner Leo Beckerman remember similar dishes from childhood, and even sell Lipton onion soup mix at the deli. He theorizes that the evolution link this familiar recipe may trace back to World War II, when fresh food was harder to come by and convenience foods off into play.
With Rosh Hashanah falling so early this year, I decided The Customs of Rosh Hashanah forgo the semi-homemade aspect o the apricot chicken and reimagine the dish Northern California-style, using seasonal late-summer stone fruit and other fresh ingredients instead of jarred preserves and dried mixes. Sweet meat might be just that, but it does need balance. In the apricot version, that salty taste comes from the onion soup mix, which is lost when the fresh onions are caramelized. Using slivered garlic and Dijon mustard helps to counteract the sweetness. Browning the The Customs of Rosh Hashanah in the pan first lends flavor to the sauce in the form of fond, the brown bits https://amazonia.fiocruz.br/scdp/essay/mormon-bank-utah/1-bridggette-hambrick-homosexuality-and-racism-10.php get stuck to the bottom.
Deglazing the pan with white wine and chicken broth add more savory notes, so that when the fruit is added, it doesn't overpower the Cuatoms. Stone fruit is still at its peak in early September, so fresh peaches can sub for jarred apricot jam. If they aren't quite sweet enough, you can add a spoonful of honey. If you're still able to find apricots, those will work as well.
Serve the dish alongside a noodle kugel for a traditional holiday dinner. As Bloom says, see more the kugel through the "sweet meat" sauce is the best part of the meal. Look for ripe, sweet peaches that aren't The Customs of Rosh Hashanah mushy - they'll break down a bit as they cook. You can use any bone-in, skin-on chicken pieces, but try to make them similar in size; breasts likely will need to be cut into pieces.
Good accompaniments would be rice or noodle kugel. Season the chicken pieces liberally with salt and pepper. Heat a large frying pan over high heat. Add the oil, and when it is very hot but not smoking, place the chicken, skin side down in the pan you may need to do this in batches. Let the chicken brown, without moving, for 5 minutes.
Turn over and cook 2 minutes more; transfer to a roasting pan.]
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